Crevasse Rescue
Continued
C-Z Pulley System
1)  "To add the C, I must tie the end of the rope into the anchor!"  This is usually chanted during Jason's
trainings for a reason.  If you remember this, the rest will make more sense.  Tie a figure-eight knot into the end
of the rope and clip it into the locking carabiner that is still attached to the master carabiner.
2)  Tie  a knot next to the pulley nearest the crevasse lip and clip a carabiner into it.  This knot may be a
clove-hitch or a figure-eight.  Advanced students may place the pack prussik on the haul line here with a
non-locker clipped to it.  This carabiner may also have an additional pulley on it if you have one.
3)  Clip the line that you just clipped into the locking carabiner into the new carabiner down by the pulley nearest
the lip.  This is your new haul line.
4)  You now have a 6:1 hauling system.  It is important to realize that you must haul six feet for every foot that
the victim rises.  You have completed the C-Z Pulley system.

Other Considerations
1)  Always pull away from the crevasse.
2)  If the victim suddenly becomes more difficult to pull-out check the victim.  Do not crush the victim in the lip
of the crevasse.
3)  Make sure the victim keeps his hands from behind the rope as it cuts through the lip
.
4)  Lock all carabiners.  You only need two locking carabiners aside from the two on your harness to complete
this rescue.
5)  If you can haul the person out on a 3:1, then do it.  It will be faster.
6)  Once you understand the system, experiment with short-cuts.  Do not experiment until you have a concrete
understanding of the whole system.
Crevasse Rescue
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