The Joshua Tree
Crack Climbing Workshop
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The following list of climbs was compiled by the Southern California Mountaineers Association. The idea
behind it is that as one ticks each of the climbs in this particular order, one will become a more skilled
crack climber.
The system appears quite scientific. First, TR the route until it is doable. Then lead it with preplaced
gear. Then lead it without flailing. Once this has been completed, move onto the next route. According
to the original article, those who follow this regimine closely will begin to jump grades in their climbing
ability.
Prep Climbs A (5.7)
1) Bighorn Hand Crack
2) Smooth as Silk
3) Double Dog Leg
4) Classic Corner
5) Bush Crack
6) White Lightning
7) Scrumdillishus
8) Frosty Cone
9) Mr. Misty Kiss
10) Double Cross
11) Nereltne
12) Life's a Bitch and then you Marry One
13) Mental Physics
14) Wisest Crack
15) Dolphin
16) Crackup
17) Gargoyle
Prep Climbs B (5.8)
1) Right Sawdust Crack
2) Baby Roof
3) Dinky Doinks
4) Sail Away
5) The Flake
6) Dog Leg
7) Hands Off
8) Tennis Shoe Crack
9) Right Peyote Crack
10) Small World
11) Music Box
12) Where 2 Deserts Meet
13) Crank Queenie
14) Taken for Granite
15) At Your Pleasure
Level One (5.8-5.9)
1) Cake Walk
2) Dummy's Delight
3) Loony Toons
4) Middle Peyote Crack
5) Pope's Crack
6) Room to Shroom
7) Touch and Go
8) Nurn's Romp
9) Gem
10) Colorado Crack
11) Continuum
12) Invisibility Lessons
Level Two (5.9-5.10c)
1) Right Baskerville Crack
2) Tossed Green
3) Aftermath
4) Left Mel Crack
5) Right Mel Crack
6) Sphincter Quits
7) North Overhang
8) Orphan
9) Watanobe Wall
10) Effigy Too (TR)
11) Spiderman
12) Bird of Fire
Level Three (5.9-5.10b)
1) Tinker Toys
2) Friendly Hands
3) Tax Man
4) Illusion Dweller
5) Lower Ski Track
6) Super Roof
7) A Woman's Work is Never Done
8) Bruiser (TR)
9) Roller Ball
10) Halfway to Paradise (TR)
11) Dangling Wo Li Master
12) Exorcist
Level Four (5.10b-5.10d)
1) Foreign Legion
2) The Importance of Being Ernest
3) What's It To You (TR)
4) Clean and Jerk (TR)
5) Fisticuffs
6) Bearded Cabbage
7) O'Kelly's Crack
8) Book of Changes
9) Caught Inside on a Big Set
10) Morning Thunder
11) Perpetual Motion
12) Rubicon
Level Five (5.10c-5.11c)
1) Butterfly Crack
2) Psychokenesis
3) The Lemon Slicer
4) Papaya Creek
5) Pat Adams Dihedral
6) Coarse and Buggy
7) Left Ski Track
8) Jumping Jack Crack
9) Hot Rocks
10) Swept Away
11) Heart of Darkness
12) Grit Root
Level Six (5.11a-5.11d)
1) Erotic City
2) Hyperion
3) Scary Monsters
4) Right Banana Crack
5) Where Eagles Dare
6) Hidden Arch
7) Spider Line
8) Wangerbanger
9) More Monkey than Funky
10) Zen and the Art of Placement
11) Human Sacrifice
12) The Woodshed