Beginner Alpine Rock Routes
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Before attempting an alpine rock climb, one should have a decent knowldege of rock climbing. This means
that you have spent a solid amount of time experimenting, leading, top-roping, and screwing around at an
established cragging area. There should also be a good understanding of multi-pitch climbing.
Generally speaking, one should not be climbing at their limit in the mountains on their first few forays. At
least during the early days of alpine rock climbing one should not attempt anything where falling on lead is a
real possibility. And don't forget, rockfall is a real danger on alpine routes. Wear a helment.
Lastly, before climbing rock in the mountains, one should have a solid understanding of travel in the
backcountry. This may include travel on snow and or glaciers.
The following routes are in ascending order of difficulty. It starts with a fourth class route and finishes
with a truly alpine rock route. If you have completed all the snow and glacier routes and have a good
understanding of rock climbing, this progression should lead one's skill set towards a high level of
understanding in the mountains.
When looking at the ratings it may appear that there is some digression to easier grades in the list. Believe
me when I say the progression is correct. Other elements of the climb make it more difficult than the grade
may indicate.
1) North Twin Sister - West Ridge: Fourth Class, Steep Snow
2) The Tooth - South Face: 5.4
3) Ingalls Peak - South Ridge: 5.4
4) South Early Winter Spire - South Arete: 5.4
5) Kangaroo Temple - North Face: 5.6
6) Liberty Bell - The Becky Route: 5.6
7) Concord Tower - North Face: 5.6+
8) Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier - Southeast Ridge on Summit Pyramid: Glacier Travel, 5.6
9) Prusik Peak - West Ridge: 5.7 for a couple moves, mostly 5.5
10) Mt. Thompson - West Ridge: 5.6, Carry Over - Loose Rock on Descent in late season.
11) Vesper Peak - North Face: Steep Snow, 5.5, Carry Over
12) Forbidden Peak - West Ridge: Steep Snow, Glacier Travel, 5.6 - A Serious Alpine Rock Route