Glaciated routes offer a number of challenges that snow routes do not offer. Aside from the regular route-finding difficulties and avalanche danger, the additional danger of crevasses exists. The following routes tend to be less crevassed than many other routes, but they remain a danger. Use proper gear and technique to minimalize the danger of a crevasse fall. One should also be proficient at crevasse rescue and ropework before attempting any of these routes. You should have experience on at least five of the snow routes without a guide before attempting any of the following. As with the other beginner pages in this website, the routes are rated by difficulty in ascending order, number one being the easiest.
1) Mt. Daniel Daniel Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield
2) Silver Star Mountain Silver Star Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.
3) Mt. Ruth Ruth Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.
4) Mt. Hood Palmer Glacier/South Side - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.
5) Glacier Peak Sitkum Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.
6) Colchuck Peak Colchuck Glacier - See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.
7) Mt. Baker Coleman/Deming Glacier - See Cascade Alpine Guide: Volume Three, by Fred Beckey.
8) Mt. Shuksan Sulphide Glacier - This is a wonderful glacier route until the summit pyrimid. Without proper training in rock climbing you may want to turn around here. To attain the summit, one must be able to climb three or four pitches of loose low fifth class rock. See Selected Climbs in the Cascades: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield.
9) Sahale Peak Quien Sabe Glacier - This is a steep snow and ice glacier climb in late season. There is a short thirty foot section of fourth class rock at the top of the climb. See Selected Climbs in the Cascade: Volume One, by Nelson and Potterfield. Note: This glacier is sometimes quite difficult and at other times quite straight forward. It all depends on the year.