| Disclaimer |
| Rant |
| We as climbers have a responsibility. Our sport is full of people who think of climbing as a game for thrillseekers and people who live on the edge. They learn how to climb from those that have not truly leaned proper skills and techniques to begin with. The result is that more of these people are injured or killed on a regular basis throughout North America. In the summer of 2001 there were two high profile rescues on Mt. Baker. The company I guide for was involved with both of the rescues. Each group had people in it that claimed to have a great deal of experience in the mountains - and this may very well be - however, the proper skills and techniques were lacking. Both parties could have avoided their situations had they recieved proper training to begin with. In some regards the media, websites, and magazines account for a great deal of the injuries. People hear about how easy things are; so as a result they take on things that are still above their heads. It is very important to remember that people are at different levels. What may be easy for one may be incredibly difficult for another. It is wrong to spray about how easy things are to people who do not yet have the skills to do particular things. In fact, by doing so one may be putting a person in danger. How many times have I heard something like: "Rainier is a joke." Or "The West Buttress on Denali is an easy walk up." People have died on these routes. And given the wrong conditions and a lack of training, almost anyone could be killed or injured on these mountains. I am constantly amazed by the lack of skill and technique that so called "experienced climbers" have. It's not uncommon to see these people passing on improper technique to those they are "teaching" to climb. By promoting technique that you don't have down yourself, you are putting your "student" in danger. How can I get proper technique? Reading books is a good way to start. Freedom of the Hills is a good book. However, one cannot learn these things by reading alone. It is important to learn from someone who had more than just a few years of experience. It is important to learn your skills from someone who is qualified to teach them. And honestly, your buddy that just graduated from the Mountaineers course isn't ready yet. The best thing to do is to hire a qualified guide to suppliment any classes you might have taken. Climbing is all about having a toolbox full of techniques and the more that you can learn, the better and safer climber you'll be. Climbers have a responsibility to learn the proper skills and technique. It is every climber's responsibilty to constantly suppliment what they know with more. Our sport is dangerous, but we can make it safer for everyone by being understanding of those who are just learning and to listen to those that have proven they have good safe skills and techniques. |

| Forbidden Peak from Sahale Peak |