Ice Climbing
Mt. Charleston, Nevada
|
Yep, no lie. There is ice forty minutes away from Las Vegas. One must just know where to look. The
following is a mini-guide to the ice above Sin City. This page is constantly being updated as I continue to
explore winter potential in the area.
Mt. Charleston Ice:
One may reach the ice up on Mt. Charleston by taking Interstate 95 North to Highway 157. From I-15, follow I-95 (North
toward Reno) seventeen miles. Take a left turn, crossing the Southbound Lane and follow Highway 157 for 20.6 miles.
Mary Jane Parking Lot:
To reach the Mary Jane Parking lot, continue straight down Echo road .4 miles. At Echo Well No. 3, veer left and drive .3 miles
to the Mary Jane Parking Area. The elevation here is 7840 feet.
Avalanche Falls - WI 4
They don't call this Avalanche Falls for nothing. Be aware of avalanche terrain both above and below the route.
Approach: After parking in the Mary Jane Parking lot, hike back down the road to Echo Well No. 3. Turn right (South) and
enter the small, usually unplowed, parking lot. You may park her e if you can get in. Ascend an avalanche gully above the well
and parking lot. Eventually the gully will split. At this point one should be able to see the falls above and to the left. Climb the
left gully to the base of the falls at approximately 8600 feet. The approach should take about an hour.
Route: Ascend the pillar to the top in a single stout pitch.
Descent: Rappel the route.
Mary Jane Falls - WI 4 -5
The different lines that make up Mary Jane Falls are an extremely engaging cluster of climbs. Unfortunately, due to the South
facing aspect of these routes, they only come in during the coldest parts of the season. Beware of warm temperatures while on
these sun-cooked climbs.
Approach: From the parking lot follow the trail for 1.5 miles. One can see the quality of the routes after approaching about
fifteen minutes from the parking lot. The first view will be available behind a yellow trail marker with an arrow on it about ten
feet up a tree. If the trail is obscured by snow, be aware that the routes are on the right (North) side of the canyon, above the
first major drainage. The approach takes approximately an hour.
Mary Jane Falls Left - WI 4 -5
Standard Route: The easiest climb on the falls ascends the left most gully for a pitch of WI 3. Step right and climb a WI 4 pitch.
Finish on easier ice moving left toward the top.
Variation #1: After the first WI 3 pitch, continue up a steep WI 5 pillar to the top.
Variation#2: Instead of starting on the WI 3 pitch, move right and climb a steep WI 4 curtain in one to two pitches. Connect
with the remainder of the route on the second pitch of the standard route.
Mary Jane Falls Right - WI 5
Route: Ascend a steep pillar to a belay stance. Climb up and right for an easier second pitch; or continue up a harder pillar to the
left. Ascend a final steep pillar to the top.
Descent: Rappel the routes.
Cathedral Rock Parking Lot:
To reach the Cathedral Trailhead, continue driving on Highway 157 for an additional half-mile or 21.1 miles from I-95. Do not
take Echo road towards the Mary Jane Parking Lot.
Little Falls - WI 2+
This fun jaunt climbs up a series of short ice ramps that follow an interesting gully up the mountainside. This little route is a
quite enjoyable climb.
Approach: Park at the Cathedral Rock Trailhead. There is an outhouse here and a series of stairs. Often in the winter these
stairs are closed to avoid accidental falls. Climb up the stairs (or the hillside) to the trailhead at the top. Fowllow the trail to the
right for .4 miles. to the base of the falls. Approach time is about fifteen minutes.
Route: Ascend the first ramp, climbing over any logs that might still be above the ice. You will find yourself in a large bowl with
graffiti on the walls. Ascend the next ramp (can be done in two short pitches) to the next bowl. Here you will discover bolted
belay stations on either side. Climb up easy ice for approximately sixty yards to the base of another short step. Contiunue up
the ravine for sixty feet or so to the base of yet another ramp. This is usually the most fun pitch of the route. Climb the
(usually) thin strip of ice to the top.
Descent: Rappel from logs and fixed anchors.
Echo Falls - WI 4
This beautiful route often ascends two fat pillars of ice.
Approach: Park at the Cathedral Rock trailhead as per the last route. Ascend the steps to the trail sign. Follow the trail to the
left, passing two switchbacks before joining a second trail. Continue to follow this trail up past two switchbacks. The route is
directly above the third switchback. Approach time is approximately twenty-five minutes.
Route: Ascend the pillar of ice to a large ledge. The first pitch is usually a solid WI 4. From the ledge, continue up a second
pillar to a log. Belay from the log. Pitch two can usually be climbed at WI 3. Both pitches are easily top-roped. To top-rope
the first pitch, ascend an easy climbers trail left of the falls. To top-rope the second pitch, ascend a trail left of the cliff-banc,
working your way back right as the steep rock fades away.
Descent: One is able to walk off to the left of either pitch.
Coming soon - Information on the following Mt. Charleston Ice Climbs:
Vegas Hose Monster - WI 5+
Lost Falls - WI 2
|