South Twin Sister
North Cascades
Northwest Face Variation
Grade III 5.4 AI 2
The following photo from Becky's Alpine Guide identifys the route rather clearly.  The
variation ascends the obvious gully directly beneath his West Ridge arrow.
Obscure Routes
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Route Beta:
Enter the cirque between the North and South Sisters.  Ascend toward the Northwest Face.  
Eventually you will reach an obvious gully that ascends to the right of the Northwest Face.  
Climb this gully.  The first ascentionists found sixty-five degree ice and low fifth class rock
climbing in the gully.  Once you reach the ridge line, ascend the standard West Ridge to the
summit.  Either descend via the West Ridge or rappel the route.
This is an early season picture from the summit
of the North Twin.  The arrow indicates the top
of the gully.
At the right:  Eric Clements follows the
last pitch up onto the ridgeline.